Pink Mountain overnight.. UGH

This campground was Larry and Sue’s go-to overnight between Dawson Creek and Ft. Nelson.  Last time we had stayed at Charlie Lake Provincial Park as we hadn’t stayed in Dawson Creek.   We had stopped in Ft. St. John to get Dusty into the vet to get some medicine to fix his loose bowels from the night before.  None of the home remedies had worked this time.  He will turn 16 years old in Alaska this summer.

We got to Pink Mountain a couple hours after our traveling companions and when we pulled in, there were no signs indicating where to park the rig to register.   I pulled over toward the front of the store and the worker bee came out saying we couldn’t park there.  He pointed where we should park, and I suggested they put up a sign to indicate that… He laughed.   With that I knew this was going to be a fiasco.  And I was correct.

As we drove in to find our pull-thru site, we encountered freshly created washboard roads.   It seems they just graded the roads with a bulldozer and it was a tracked one so it created washboard as it graded the road.  (that is probably why you never see a tracked dozer grading roads.)

We made it to our site and hooked up the electric and started to deploy when I noticed we were inverting and not on shore power.   When I looked at my Power Watchdog EPO Surge Protector, I saw it was blocking the 94 volt power they were trying to supply to us.  Yikes, that is lower than I have ever seen, Anywhere.   I immediately called the office and told them what I found.  The same guy said they only have 30 amp power.  I explained that doesn’t matter, all the different  amperage’s outlets should have 120 volts.   Then he said they were working on the generator.  Oh Boy.   By about 7pm the power was up to 115 volts, which is good enough.

But of course it didn’t stay that way.  All night it was dropping below 100 volts if you tried to pull just 10 amps from that 30 amp supply.  I finally just pulled the plug and used our batteries to run anything that draws any power like the coffee pot, microwave or toaster.

That place was a bad joke.  Never again…

I have never been happier to leave a campground than I was that morning.

Dawson Creek & Chetwynd Carvings

We drove to the Mile 0 Campground and checked in.   Another dirt campsite with only 30 amp service.  We drove over to the main sign to take some pictures and check out the gallery and gift store.  We got the picture part, but the gallery was closed Sunday and Monday.  Oh well, they missed out on some cash,  but I was happy 🙂

That evening we headed out to a local tap room for some burgers, and on the way Kathy had to take pictures of the real Mile 0 signpost, which is not the big sign near the circle and art gallery.  The tap room was called the Post & Row.  We got to try fries with brown gravy.  It was better than poutine in my opinion.

On the way back we stopped by the museum on the campground property as we saw what looked to be a car show going on.  It was an interesting museum and we got to talk to the locals from the car show.  Turns out this was just their dinner show and their big one is in July and takes up most of the town instead of the museum.   They were talking about 500 cars on display.

The next day we decided to drive to Chetwynd where they have a chainsaw carving competition.   It was about an hour’s drive west of Dawson and we found probably over a hundred carvings to look at.  They lined the roads for miles.  Based on the markings, folks come from all over the world to compete and make their carvings.   It was pretty cool, as in windy and cool.  The carvings were pretty incredible things to see.

 

 

 

Grand Prarie

We were very happy to leave Whitecourt Lions Campground with all the highway noise..  The roads so far have been pretty smooth till the last leg from Valley View to Grand Prairie.  Lots of unmarked frost heaves.  It was a bumpy road.

We headed south of town to Camp Tamarack.  It was a nice campground.   We took an extra day here to stock up on groceries, and on the day we left, we went to Costco for the best price on fuel so far on the trip, $3.50 per gallon.

 

 

Whitecourt AB

We stopped at a Lions campground here for one night on the way to Grand Prairie.  We pulled into our spot and when I got out, I was bombarded by the sound of trucks without mufflers going uphill on the highway that was maybe 50 yards from our site.   Oh My, was that loud.   And it continued for hours and hours.  And actually the pickup trucks were the loudest.  One of the worst campsites that I can remember.  We sat outside at our picnic table and played some Yahtzee and were serenaded by the highway.   We were very glad to leave this noisy place early the next morning.

Edmonton

We drove for hours from Calgary to Diamond Grove RV outside of Edmonton in Thick Smoke.  I run the air purifier the whole time with it right up front with us and plugged into the 120v outlet at the bottom of the dash by the steps.   When we arrived at the campground the smoke was dissipating and by the next morning was gone.

We had been jones’n of pizza for at least a week and we decided to hit a Boston Pizza again.  We had been to one in Prince George the last time we were traveling thru Canada.  It didn’t disappoint.

The following morning we drove over to Stony Plain and looked for the Murals we read about,  there were a lot to see and took a few pics of the ones Kathy liked.

Then we headed over to find the Stony Plain & Parkland Pioneer Museum and spent a couple hours wandering around with a guide.  It was interesting.  On the way back from the Museum we stopped at a Grain Elevator museum but we ended up leaving without going in.   After that we all agreed to find ice cream, I found a place on google that had pretty good ratings.   We drove over and it turned out to be a trailer in the parking lot of a strip mall.   And true to their reviews the ice cream was delicious.

We were at the campground a few days and it turns out or campsites were unfortunately right across from the playground.  The issue was that from about 9am till around 8 pm there were Screaming Kids there and lots of them.  It was amazing how loud they could be and it seemed to never stop.  I don’t know how they could scream so much, I was amazed how long they could scream, I would have thought they would have been horse after just a short while.  If I was their parents, I would have sent them away too.  We were happy to leave that campsite and head for Whitecort… till we got there.  We will let you know what happened there on the next post.

Calgary

We left early on Friday morning to head north toward Calgary and fuel up near Trans Canada Highway 1, which was at least a couple hours away.   That fuel stop would allow our next fill to be in Grand Prairie, about 500 miles north.  GP is the last reasonable priced fuel stop before Anchorage.  Lucky for us, we left the smoke behind in Waterton and it was an enjoyable ride till we got to the fuel station.   Then it got difficult.  Seems it was the start of the Canadian long weekend and everyone needed fuel, so it was a madhouse getting in and out of there.   Not real fun with a 65′ long rig with all the folks jockeying for position.   And of course I forgot to take into account I was paying in Canada money when I prepaid inside, so I had to do it twice to fill the tank, which only meant I was there even longer.

We arrived in Cochran and Google Maps took me thru a new neighborhood with lots of small roundabouts.   Next time I will look much closer to the route it wants to take and set a few way-points if it’s going to do something stupid like that.  Bow Rivers Edge Campground was down this odd roadway with construction all around it.

We paid and pulled into our site.   It was fairly tight once in there and there were fairly tall hedges between us and our neighbors.   It was a bit smokey there, so when it cleared up the next day, there was a bit of celebrating going on all over the campground.  It was so smoky that I started to research filters on Consumer Reports.   Of course, I didn’t find any of their tested models available near me and ended up buying a 3M Filtrete Air Purifier model at Lowes.   It surprisingly worked well and now we have one for our time in Alaska too.  Last time in Alaska we were dodging smoke most of the trip.

We went out with our travel companions one evening while there to a local Tap Room, Half Hitch Brewing for Burgers.  The beer was good and so were the burgers.

Waterton Lakes National Park, Glacier National Park

We arrived at Waterton Lakes campground to 72+ degrees, blue skies and a light breeze.   Heavenly!  This next picture is the view to the hotel from our campsite.   The next afternoon you could barely see it.

Took a walk over to the Red Chairs — it’s a Canada   thing — and sat down to look at the beautiful view.  It was nothing less than spectacular!  I could have sat there all day.

The following afternoon the smoke arrived and depending on the wind, it made seeing the mountains a blur!    Larry & Sue arrived a little after 5 pm the day after we arrived, leaving Billings, MT, around 7:30 in the morning.  That’s a really LONG drive!   He mentioned that was the longest he’d ever driven any of his RV’s, and would not do that again if possible.   They started full-timing in the early 2000’s.

That evening we all were very hungry and Larry had spotted a pub on his way in, so we drove over there.  We went into the “Pub” but the only food they served were nachos.   There was a restaurant just down the hallway, so we went down there.  As we got to the host table, I said to our group, “We might be under dressed for this place.”  It was beautifully set up.

Lucky for us, they didn’t care about our attire.   It was one of the better meals I’ve had on the road.   My potato soup was to die for.  I had never tasted anything that good before that I can recall.   I had the curry chicken on rice, which was good too; but the soup, wow, I will never forget that.  Everyone else loved their dinner too.  A really surprise fancy dinner!

We drove over to the Prince of Wales Hotel, which turns out wasn’t open yet. They were still removing the boards from the winter closure.  They wouldn’t let us inside, but we got to check out the view, and what a view it was! (even with the smoke)  Gorgeous.  The hotel was set to open up the afternoon we were leaving.  We looked into staying for an extra day or two, but it was Victoria Day long weekend and the campground was fully booked.

We left there and headed out to Cameron Lake, a 22-mile winding mountain road.  Beautiful day use area.  The lake still had lots of ice.  We wandered around there for about an hour.  It was a beautiful spot.   While driving out we passed the first oil well in Western Canada.  There was a replica just off the road.   Some waterfalls and Caribou grazing on the side of the road.  There were also a herd of Big Horn Sheep right at the turnoff to Cameron Lake.  There were a few of these large metal grates built up next to the road which may help prevent ice from hitting the roadway.  Not sure if that is what they are for.

On the way back, we stopped at a fairly large waterfall not far from our campsite.  I had been hearing it for a couple of days, so we decided to check it out.  It was a spectacular roaring falls.  Lots of water crashing down.  Took some pics and headed back to the campground to make lunch.

The next morning we headed out another small road, which was much shorter, not as beautiful as the prior day, but very nice nonetheless.   After we got back to the main road, we headed over to Haybarn.  Sadly, there was no Haybarn out there that we cold find.   But there was some camping areas and a small building that looked like toilets.   That one was a pretty smooth dirt road, and along the way out we stopped to watch a couple Grouse which seemed to be courting.

We hitched up the cars and headed out Friday morning to a campground outside of Calgary in a small town called Cochrane, AB.

 

Milk River & Leathbridge Pure Casino

We had stopped in Milk River on our last trip to Alaska and figured we would do it this time also.  It was a convenient place to get Canadian cash from an ATM there so we could pay for campgrounds that do not take cards, usually due to lack of internet service along the Alcan which prevents card processing.

This year was a bit of a fiasco.  I took my credit union’s ATM card to the same place that it worked the last time and this time it did not work, as that payment kiosk required a chip, and my card did not have one.   No issue, I had another ATM card from another bank and it had a chip.  But it too did not work!!  Only later I noticed that card had expired a few months before.

Now things were getting interesting.   I went back to the coach to see if I could find out the PINs for my usual credit cards, figuring I would get a cash advance; but when I checked, I had never set them up with a PIN.   I went online to set them up, and guess what?  That bank will only send a “new” PIN out by regular mail… to our house in San Diego, not to where we were, in Canada.  Now things were starting to seem serious to me.

Luckily for us, our friends Tami & Scott had decided to stay with us for one night in Milk River and Tami was able to get cash and really helped us out.  We wrote her a check and she did a mobile deposit.   Phew!  This really showed us how things can go wrong when traveling.  Seemingly innocuous things can really throw a wrench into your plans.

I guess we could have paid with our US cash to that particular campground, but I calculated I needed about $1,000 Canadian for the rest of the trip in Canada (up and down), and getting a new card may be impossible during this trip.  Not sure if they allow them to forward to our mail forwarding service.  I guess we will find that out in the next few months.

That night I woke up from a dead sleep around 2 am  remembering I had put a PIN on a card that I almost never use.   I checked in the morning and I had that PIN in my password manager,  Keepass.   That morning I drove over to a bank really early to take another $400 and it was declined.  Turns out the only bank in Milk River only takes MasterCard in their ATM and my card was a Visa..  Holy Smokes, this was getting tough.

The following morning I overhear Kathy and Tami on the phone saying something about Scott has to go back to the US to activate his Hotspot SIM card for data to work in Canada.   I had to go over and ask Scott what was going on as we had gotten it working late yesterday afternoon.  Turns out his Google Fi account had switched to unlimited data overnight and his Data SIM was disabled.   His call to Fi support was not helpful getting it to work, and they said he must go back into the States to activate it again.   I assumed he needed a U.S. cell tower, but that turned out to be incorrect, he just needed WiFi that was listed as being in the U.S.   My new Starlink system to the rescue!  We connected his laptop to my Starlink and was able to activate his data SIM.   So apparently the stop in Milk River was good for both of us.  🙂

Tami said we should follow them to their next stop instead of us staying in Milk River for a second night.  Kathy wanted to leave this place because the trees dropped sap and leaves and debris that stuck to Dusty’s feet, so we went with them.   We drove to a casino in Lethbridge, AB.   And happily for me, that Visa card worked in one of their ATM’s!!  What an ordeal.  But finally I had a way to get a bit of cash if needed later.    Turns out that bank card has a maximum of $375 of cash advance, which is $500 Canadian.

While camped/parked at the Pure Casino, we enjoyed lunch, and the next morning we went in for the $5 breakfast.   The funny part about breakfast was the night before we decided to go at 9 am.  When we walked back to the doors we had use the afternoon before, we noticed the large print about them opening at 9:30 every day.  I guess we were truly “too poor to pay attention” for that one.

Also of note, when we got to Lethbridge, my Starlink knew we were in Canada, so Scott’s SIM activation may not have worked if we waited to do it then.

This was not a great way to start the adventure!  But it all worked out in the end.

Dillon to Great Falls Montana

The morning in Dillon was extremely cold (to us) 27 degrees at around 6 am.   When I woke up and saw that, I turned off my charger on the inverter.  I then went outside and turned off the solar panel output breakers and turned on the newly installed battery heater switch.  (I am so glad I installed the switch before we left)    I did this as my LiFePo’s should not be charged when they are colder than 32 degrees.   They probably have a low temp protect circuit, but do I trust it?  Nope.

Around 10 am we got on the road heading toward Great Falls, MT, to meet with friends that were also going to Alaska.   We aren’t traveling with their group after checking how many miles they were traveling each day on the Alcan.  It’s  just too far each day to drive, taking into consideration our knowledge of the roads once you get past Dawson Creek.   We chose to go with another couple we met in Alaska the last time we were there and had caravan’ed with for a couple months on and off,  Larry and Sue.  They tend to drive shorter distances on the really rough roads that we will likely encounter on the Alcan, but  most importantly,  they are really fun people to travel with!

The drive from Dawson Creek (beginning of the Alcan) to Tok, Alaska,  is over 1,200 miles (not km) and they only get a couple months of the year to fix it, so all the construction for the year is happening when you are driving it.   They pave it with dirt and rocks, so it can be a real mess.

We got to the campground in Great Falls and ended up in a spot just a couple slots up the hill from our friends Tami and Scott.  We also got to meet the people they are traveling with and got to spend a few days enjoying being with the group before we all head on this great Alaskan adventure!!!  And to our delight most of them know how to cook and we got to share a few dinners with the group, which were impressive meals.

Starlink In-Motion Research and Installation

Getting the correct information about this new SL In-Motion option was not as easy as it should have been.   I read a lot of blog posts and watched a lot of  half baked youtube videos.  Every one of them left out the two most critical pieces of information I needed to make sure this was feasible:   How large of a hole do you need to get the cable into the motorhome and any information about using a third-party router without using that low-spec SL router.

I watched one video of an installer drilling a 1.5″ hole in his roof for the cable from the Dishy.   He apparently didn’t know the other side of that cable was a .6″ connector.   Slightly larger than a 1/2″ hole was all that was  needed.   And this In-Motion Dishy comes with an Ethernet cable built in, which was perfect to plug into our Max Transit.

I finally got to see what comes in the box while attending Escapade Tucson in March, and I was able to measure the cable hole size requirements with a tape measure and also look at the Ethernet cable it comes with so you can leave the obsolete SL router in the box.   After that I was ready to pull the trigger.

When we got home, I ordered mine thru MobileMustHave.com.  It drop-shipped via Fedex from Winegard the next day.  It arrived in San Diego less than a week later.  When I got home, I unboxed it immediately as there was a hole in the box.  I wanted to make sure everything was in good shape and all the cables I expected to be there were there!

It all looked good.   I set up a table out front on the driveway and hooked it up with a small travel router I’d used in the past.  It started working within minutes and I was a happy camper!  I figured I would let it run till it got dark out, then bring it back in the garage.  Then I’d deploy it in the backyard in the morning for a few days to “burn in” while I got the motorhome roof ready to mount it.

I decided to use a 12″ square piece of 5962 VHB from Digikey.com.  5962 is slightly thicker.  That would give me 144 square inches of bond.   The wedge mount was a bit smaller than that size, so I purchased a piece of 5150 1/8″ sheet aluminum and counter sunk some flat head screws from the bottom up thru the wedge mount and locked them with Nylock nuts.  Now I had the 12×12 square that would hold the SL In-Motion Dishy to the roof and it would be difficult to remove.  I used CSL silicone to surround it and over the nuts to prevent water from trying to get under it and possibly pop it off if I was ever in a spot that it could freeze.

 

 

I cleaned the area of the roof a few days prior with Acetone and then the day of with alcohol and roughed it up with 200 grit sandpaper.   It was as clean a surface as I was going to get it.  Then I brought up the wedge and placed it where I thought it should go, brought up the Dishy and mounted it to look at clearances for the A/C and spotlight.   Both were far enough away to not be part of any obstructions to the view of the Dishy and it looked straight from the ground way in front of the coach.    I then marked the roof with a Sharpie so I knew where it needed to be glued down.

It was a nice warm day, probably 80 degrees, perfect for the VHB to bond to the fiberglass; so I put it in its place and slowly pealed off the red cover a little at a time to make sure it stuck in the correct spot.  I used some heavy tool steel to hold it down after I was done pushing it down for a while.   A few hours later I gave the wedge mount a yank and realized the roof would probably come off first before the wedge did.  It was well bonded.   If I needed to get that wedge off,  I will need to cut off the bolts.

The next morning I installed the Dishy on the wedge and wired it up and put the small end thru my roof access port and snaked that wire over to the cabinet I installed the POE device in that it plugs into.    That POE device is plugged into an outlet that is supplied by the inverter.  It’s a really large device that uses 80 watts of power almost all the time.   If you use the Dishy’s sleep mode, that cuts the power by 1/2, to 40 watts, which isn’t really a light load for something that can be running on batteries often.

The next part of the project was to connect the Starlink into my existing internet system, namely, making it a WAN connection on my Max Transit cellular router.   The most interesting part of the equation was the Starlink was providing internet access thru the Max as soon as it was connected, no configuration other than the WAN wired port was in the Priority 1 position beforehand.

Then I started testing the SL app on the phone and noticed it would only connect using its “remote” feature.  It wouldn’t connect as local.   Without the local function, some of the Dishy configuration was not accessible.

I could find nothing about getting it to work via the Max.  A few days of posting on the Peplink forum, I got a response from a vendor out of Texas that sent a picture of a part of the configuration that allowed my app to connect local.   I had to edit that WAN connection and add an address.  Then I had to add a DNS entry:  dishy.starlink.com = 192.168.100.1    Once done, my app would connect local to the Dishy.   We were done!!!

 

UPDATE 2 weeks into our Alaska trip we are in Glacier National Park in Canada.  The In Motion Dishy has NOT lost connectivity yet.   Which was totally unexpected camping in canyons and under trees many times during this journey so far.   As we get further north I expect that to change as the Starlink 3rd party maps show very few satellites in those orbital planes.   We are camped in the Waterton Lakes Townsite Campground for the next three nights, surrounded by tall mountains, very close on three sides but the app says “no obstructions”.  So far this very expensive piece of hardware is preforming way way better than expected.  Here is a screenshot from Waterton Lakes…

UPDATE 5 weeks into our Alaska trip.   We are outside of Watson Lake, Yukon.  The In-Motion dishy has been a god send.  The last 10 days we have been camping and driving the ALCAN.  No cell service here, and no service most of the way since Dawson Creek.  We have camped under trees and surrounded by mountains.  Yes, some drops but phone calls were working and data was moving quickly.  I am very glad I opted for the $2500 hardware and not the $600 option.   I am parked under trees as I write this update.

This thing rocks!  [06/07/2-23]