Tuesday. Apartment was an interesting place, outside it
looked like it was falling down but the inside was brand new. And we were 4 floors above ground, but thankfully there was a rickety old elevator that looked like it was added 100 years ago to straddle the circular staircase. It took a while to check in as there as there was a booking.com snafu. So that had us miss the train to Paestum to see the Greek temples. Once I realized we had missed it I found the next train and it was leaving in 20 minutes, I got a hold of Scott to see if he still wanted to go. He did, we walked very fast back to Napoli Centrale to catch it before it left us as the next train was leaving over an hour later and would have not been ideal as it was pretty late getting there.
We got to the train with 2 minutes to spare but we didn’t have seat reservations and I asked a young conductor lady if we could buy them on the train. She was aghast saying it would cost so much more. She even tried to use my phone to buy them but was unsuccessful. I said we would pay the fine (15 Euro) and headed for the train, she told us to get in Car #2. We did. This was a IC train, much faster than the regional s, but no where near the Frecca speeds.
She came by and again tried to help us buy the seat reservations but we could not due to some 30 minute rule, she even suggested buying them from a town further down the line for this same train but that 30 minute rule kicked in again. After she tried to help us for probably 10 minutes she took off to see the tickets for others. She did help us by not coming back to collect the fines. After a while another conductor came by to see our tickets and then realized we had tix but no seat reservations and just walked away, never to come back either. The Italian folks are really very helpful! The temples there were all I hoped for and a bit more! Its well worth the time it takes to get there.
Wednesday: Amalfi Private Tour. Wow Lunch at an elegant place with a stunning view of the coast. We arrived at the Circumvesuviana train depot, below Napoli Centrale Station. Its a commuter line, that runs down to Sorrento where our driver was to pick us up for our 8 hour tour of the coast. It was similar to the NYC subway. And almost as crowded. We booked Francesco for the tour but he sent Attillo to drive us. We were a bit disappointed but we were very happy as we went along the road. We were very glad we did NOT try to drive this winding narrow road that was almost two lanes wide. It was interesting as cars and buses came toward us. We made a few roadside stops to take pictures and then hit the town of Positano. Its quite a steep cliff-side village. With one path/road down to the beaches way below. Zillions of shops along the walks and stairs as we headed down toward the beach. Close to the bottom I overheard a young girl tell her mom that they will have to drag their luggage all the way back up when they left.. Wise beyond her years for such a young person. And of course after getting coffee and cookies and pastries we were going to have to do that same thing. We were glad we didn’t have our luggage!!
Next we headed toward Almafi and walked around that town, I walked up the main road/walkway and Kathy, Scott and Tami walked up the steps to a big church. I saw all those steps and decided I wasn’t interested in seeing the insides of another church enough to climb all those. Then back to the Mercedes Mini van with Attillo and off to Ravenna for lunch and a look around. We arrived and climbed another 50 stairs up to the piazza. Then we were off to find an amazing restaurant with an incredible view of the coast. Ristorante Sigligaida in the Hotel Rofolo. It was one of the best lunches I’ve ever had. The view was totally amazing with floor to ceiling glass. Then it was around 3pm and we were off to head back to Napoli. A truly amazing day. We decided to let Atillio drive use back to Naples instead of our planned ride back from Sorrento via the CV train. It was a much nicer ride. We used our return tickets to take that train to Pompeii the next morning
Thursday: Pompeii. WOW Took that same train down to Scavi Pompeii station and walked over to the Marina Porto entrance. Along the way there are a few scammers trying to get you to go inside their shops saying that’s where folks with tickets online must go. We passed them and walked right thru the entrance with our online tickets. The first thing you see in Pompeii is at steep grade with what we are calling Ankle Breaker rocks for a road you have to walk on to get up to the town. I was shocked to see most of the town is still standing. Unlike the Roman Forum, which was mostly detritus from what it once was. A lot of the homes till had fresco’s painted on their walls, which was quite amazing considering it was buried over 2000 years ago in 79AD. We walked around for over 3 hours and saw maybe 1/2 of what was there. Kathy wasn’t feeling well so we bailed out close to the farthest place from where we needed to go back to. We got outside the gates and looked for a bus, but pompei is small, next bus was in over an hour. We opted for the only cab around.
We told the drive we wanted to go to the Train Station and he told me the trains were all broken and he’d have to drive us back to Naples. Wow, Anyway I told him we were meeting folks at the train station and to take us there anyway. He wasn’t happy I called his bluff. He begrudgingly took us there. And then of course wouldn’t take a credit card and then shorted me $5 euro’s saying he didn’t have change. Everything we were warned about.
The trains were running and we got there just in time for the next train north. This time the train had padded seats! And fewer stops too. But it had a Jamaican bongo guy entertaining us right behind Kathy’s head, not helping her headache.
Went out for dinner after the Pompeii visit but it was 6pm and the restaurants didn’t open till 7pm. Some nice young lady stopped and asked if we needed help. She told us to go over to the old town for a nicer experience as we were in a sketchy part of Naples. I ordered an Uber and we took it to Piazza Santa Maria La Nova for tapas
Walk back to our Apartment (a very long way) Had 17,250 steps that day…
The next morning we boarded another Freccarossa for a ride to Florence